Well this is gonna be long, boring, and full of text and links. Maybe a couple pictures? We’ll see what we can do I guess. Starting from the absolute basics I guess.
Roxul R14 ComfortBatt insulation: It’s made of rock wool so it’s nicer to deal with than pink fiberglass. You should wear a dust mask when handling it but it’s easily cut with a bread knife and while it’s still a little itchy, it’s not the claw-your-skin-off sensation that you can get from the other stuff. Obviously cellulose isn’t a possibility since mushrooms can eat it. Closed-cell foam would be an option but it seemed like it would have been a nightmare with the uneven studs. Obviously buy the appropriate thickness for whatever studs you have.
6 mil vapor barrier, sheathing tape, staples, screws: It’s building supplies. What can I say.
Pond liner: This stuff is very decently thick and has enough traction that I’m not worried about putting anything else like bar mats down on the floor. It DOES stink a bit for its first while in a warm environment, but just keep the air moving.
Sashco Lexel sealant/adhesive: I love this stuff. Dries clear, paintable, can be applied to wet surfaces, very flexible when cured, etc. It’s also full of godawful solvents so actually do use it in a decently ventilated area. I think I went through 4 tubes of this stuff. You could use pretty much any silicone or construction adhesive suitable for your materials though.
Pest-resistant dryer vent: Has a cheesy little screen over it to keep rodents out. Probably doesn’t work very well, cover it with something more sturdy if you ACTUALLY have pest problems. Make sure the flapper opens fully when the fan is on and closes fully when it’s off. If it doesn’t close fully (due to positive pressure from air intake etc), you can put a small weight on it like a washer or coin. Being fully closed will help keep insects out when the fan isn’t blowing.
4″ extractor fan: You should ideally get an exhaust fan that’s actually intended to work at absurd relative humidity. Y’know, for safety and so you’re not buying another one every 3 months. This one has two speed settings, you can change it by opening up the compartment the power cable goes into. I guess you could put this on the inside or the outside, depending how much you cared about outside noise.
A couple 5V blower fans: One for the fogger, one to gently assist with air intake. They’re surprisingly durable, and it’s hard to get too freaked out over 5 volts. If your humidifier is outside the fruiting area, these will probably last a long time, since that one shouldn’t actually be pulling humid air. If you’re using a giant barrel for a fogger you might need something a little bigger like this handy dandy but not TOO powerful version of the extractor fan.
A suitable tote/barrel: Or however you make your fogger. Ideally a very large bucket. Find what works for you (and what’s big enough to fit your fogger unit.)
A 6-head pond fogger: Also the included float and power supply. These things can in theory blow through a gallon of water in an hour and a half. Realistically not so much, but it is still a LOT of fog. It’s about the perfect size both for this space and with the heater running as often as it does. If in doubt about which to get, go bigger, you’re probably going to be putting it on a controller anyways.
A cheap little fan heater: Worked well enough to keep me warm while I was working in there but I’ll be getting something better.
Inkbird IHC200 humidity controller: Same one most people use. Make sure the sensor doesn’t get wet, it’s good to build a little hat over it to prevent condensation. The sensors still aren’t gonna last forever. It’ll take a bit of experimenting to get the various parameters set so it’s how you want it, but after that it just does its thing as long as you make sure the fogger has water. The cool thing is that it also has a dehumidifier output – you probably won’t be using a dehumidifier obviously, but you could use it to turn on a second intake fan or something.
Inkbird ITC1000 temperature controller: Not pre-wired, just so you know. Apparently you save thirty bucks if you can wire it up yourself. Obviously only do this if you’re comfortable working with line voltage. Also has an ‘alarm’ relay feature that I haven’t used.
UPDATE: I’ve switched to the Inkbird ITC-308 temperature controller, which does both heating and cooling. This unit is pre-wired.
A whole bunch of these LED strips: They’re 16 feet long, and I wanted 8′ lengths so it’s perfect. It’s cuttable every few inches. There’s a whole bunch of LED strips you can get, but this one is specifically 6500k, waterproof, super bright, and with (not 600, 300) total LEDs per strip. Note that this does not include a power supply. The power supplies some of them come with can only power one strip. I’ve tried two, it was not a good idea. All come with one end wired with a plug, once you cut it you’ll need to wire a plug onto the other end. UPDATE: The 600-LED string appears to no longer be available, the links is for a 300-LED unit of brighter LEDs.
These snap-on things that pierce the waterproofing: You’ll need these or something like them to wire up plugs on cut-up LED strips. LED strip goes in one side, your wire goes in the other. Make sure you get ones specific to the kind of strip you have.
Barrel plugs and sockets: You’ll need a bunch, there’s a decent amount of wiring involved and most of it’s DIY. Sorry. Luckily it’s not very hard and everything is very clearly marked. One side has screw terminals for your wire.
A whole bunch of wire: I got a huge thing of stranded 20ga red/black wire. Made my own splitters for the LED power, etc, saved a bunch of money. Wherever you get wire I guess. I used some 16ga speaker wire I had for the “main” runs from the power supply to the mass of splitters.
12V/30A power supply: I got three, how many you need depends on your LED strip, see the strip for wattage details. Each of these gives you three 12V outputs with a combined total capacity of 360 watts per unit. Note that these are not pre-wired, you’ll need to be comfortable working with line voltage and crimping spade connectors. It’s worth it though, they’re really nice and the fan only comes on when needed.
Cable staples, wire guideways, etc: Whatever you need to make it work in your space. With how cheap the LED strips are I ended up just stapling them to the studs with actual staples. Even the one time I missed and put a staple directly through an LED, only that one stopped working, the rest of the strip was fine.
…part 3 is gonna be the actual growing of mushrooms in there, so it may be a little while 😉
UPDATE! Part 3!